



Double Face Sledge / Club Hammer, Wooden Handle | Masonry, Chisel Driving & Demolition Work
- Product: Double face hammer — both ends are flat striking faces
- Head: Iron, rectangular section, painted finish
- Handle: Wooden, fitted
- Made to strike chisels
- Use For: Masonry, chisel driving, demolition and heavy striking
Double Face Hammer is the plain striking hammer — a rectangular steel head with a flat face at both ends, on a wooden handle. No claw, no pein, nothing but two faces that hit things.
That simplicity is the point. This is the hammer for driving cold chisels and bolsters, breaking out masonry, and any job where you need to deliver real energy in a controlled way. A chisel works by taking a heavy, square blow that transfers straight into the cut — tapping one with a light carpentry hammer achieves nothing except a mushroomed chisel head and a sore hand.
It also matters that this is the right kind of hammer to strike steel with. A claw hammer face is hardened for driving nails, not for hitting chisels, and using one on a chisel chips both tools. A double-face hammer head is made for exactly that duty.
Having both ends as striking faces is more useful than it sounds. There is no claw or pein to catch on anything in a confined space, the tool is balanced in the hand whichever way you pick it up, and when one face starts to wear you can work off the other.
Key Features
- Two flat striking faces: Nothing to catch in a tight space, and balanced whichever way you hold it
- Built to strike steel chisels — the job a claw hammer face is not hardened for
- Delivers real energy per blow: What a chisel or bolster actually needs to cut
- Wooden handle: Absorbs some of the shock that a solid steel handle passes straight to your wrist
- Handle is replaceable — a split handle does not mean a scrapped hammer
Technical Specifications
Technical Specifications (Quick Reference)
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Product Type | Double face hammer (sledge / club pattern) |
| Head Material | Iron |
| Faces | Two, flat |
| Handle Material | Wood |
Applications
Where it is used
- Chisel and bolster work: Cutting brick, block and concrete
- Masonry and demolition: Breaking out small areas and removing fixings
- Driving stakes and pegs on site and in the ground
- Formwork and shuttering: Knocking panels together and apart
- General site striking where a carpentry hammer is too light
1) What head weight should I choose?
Weight is the whole decision. A lighter head gives control and suits chisel work and confined spaces, and tires you far less over a day. A heavier head delivers more energy per blow and suits breaking out, demolition and driving stakes — but it is harder to place accurately and punishing to swing for long. Check the head weight in the specification table against the work you have in mind.
2) Can I use a claw hammer instead for chisel work?
You can, but you should not. A claw hammer face is hardened for driving nails, not for striking steel, and using one on a chisel chips both tools over time. A claw hammer is also too light to drive a chisel properly, and the claw catches on things in tight spaces.
3) The head feels loose on the handle. What should I do?
Stop using it immediately. A loose head can fly off mid-swing, which is the classic hammer accident and a serious one. Re-wedge it properly or fit a new handle — the handle is replaceable, so a loose or split one does not mean a scrapped hammer. And always wear safety goggles: striking chisels and masonry throws hard fragments at speed.
- Return within 24 hours of delivery for:
- Damaged or defective product
- Wrong or missing item
- Product cannot be returned once installed or used
- Refer to Refund Policy for complete details
Please check the head is tight on the handle before first use.
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